Frequently Asked Questions

National cost guides list new asphalt driveways at roughly $5 to $12 or more per square foot (HomeGuide) and $7 to $15 per square foot (Angi), with an 800-square-foot driveway around $4,000 to $9,600 in HomeGuide's table. Long ranch drives and lots often cost less per square foot because of scale. We give you a written price after seeing the property.

Usually. Asphalt costs less than concrete over long distances, ends the dust and washboard of gravel, and is easy to patch. It needs sealing every few years. For a very long drive, paving the most-used section first and extending later is a common approach.

On flat Valley lots, pavement needs a built-in slope or crown to shed water. If it was paved level, or the base has settled, water sits in low spots. Regrading and repaving with proper fall, or adding a drain, fixes it.

Yes, where it fits. Recycled asphalt millings make a good compacted base or a low-cost drive surface for rural roads, and HomeGuide lists recycled asphalt driveways at about $4 to $9 per square foot. For a finished driveway or lot, hot-mix asphalt gives a smoother, more durable surface.

Spring and fall are ideal. Summer works with early starts. Winter is possible on dry days, but tule fog and cold mornings can delay work, especially for sealcoating.

HomeGuide puts asphalt driveways at 15 to 30 years with proper maintenance. A good base, good drainage and a sealcoat every few years push it toward the long end; standing water and heavy loads on a thin section shorten it.

Most take one to three days. Larger or longer driveways take more. We give you a schedule with the quote.

Asphalt usually costs less and is easier to patch; concrete costs more but stays harder in summer heat. For long drives and farm properties, asphalt is the common choice.

Yes, on your property. If widening means changing the curb cut, that is right-of-way work, and we confirm the City of Hanford's or the county's requirements first.

For cars, 2 to 3 inches of asphalt over 6 to 8 inches of base is typical. For trucks and trailers, 3 to 4 inches over 8 to 10 inches. We set it based on what you park.

Often, yes, after it is regraded, topped up with crushed rock and compacted. Gravel mixed into soft soil has to be dug out first.

With a crown down the center and shaped shoulders, so water runs off both sides. Culvert crossings and gates need their own grades.

It can be for rural roads. It is cheaper than hot-mix but rougher and needs renewing more often. We can discuss whether it suits your road.

Rubber-tired tractors, yes, on a properly built section. Steel tracks and implements dragged on the surface will damage it.

Small lots take a few days; large ones are phased over one or more weeks. You get a schedule with the quote.

Yes, with heavier sections for trucks and forklifts and concrete where loads stand.

Usually, by regrading low areas so water reaches existing drains. Major drainage changes may need an engineer.

HomeAdvisor puts it at about every 15 to 20 years, with sealcoating every two to five years in between.

Yes. Entrances and drive aisles often fail first. Repaving them now and the rest later is a common plan.

Yes, early in the day before the pavement gets too hot. Mid-afternoon summer heat is outside the range sealer needs.

Damp, foggy days slow curing. We schedule winter sealing for clear, dry spells.

Usually 12 to 72 hours depending on weather. We tell you when.

No. Sealcoat goes only on asphalt.

Fresh sealer can be slick when wet. Many sealers include sand for traction, and the surface roughens slightly with wear.

Yes. A sealed surface sheds rain instead of absorbing it, which protects the base during the wet months.

Because the wet or broken base under them was not replaced. Saw-cut repairs remove that base and stop the cycle.

If damage is limited to a few areas, repair. If most of the surface is cracked or patched, replacement is often cheaper over time.

Yes. We rebuild the edge with base and asphalt and reshape the shoulder.

Before the winter rains, ideally in late summer or fall.

On dry days, yes. Hot patches need dry conditions; cold patch can be used as a temporary fix in wet weather.

Every couple of years for most lots, and after every sealcoat or overlay.

It depends on total stalls under the 2010 ADA Standards table, with at least one in six van-accessible. We count and show you.

Yes, when the site allows, so the lot stays open during business hours.

Yes, to the marking the fire department or your site plan requires.

Traffic paint made for asphalt, applied on dry pavement. It dries quickly so the lot reopens the same day.

Yes, we can stripe and mark EV stalls as part of a new layout.

Usually the next day, once the sealer has cured. In warm, dry weather it can sometimes be the same day.